{"id":17412,"date":"2022-08-14T16:07:00","date_gmt":"2022-08-14T14:07:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.vancura.cz\/?p=17412"},"modified":"2024-03-28T11:52:15","modified_gmt":"2024-03-28T10:52:15","slug":"indie-2022","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vancura.cz\/wordpress\/indie-2022\/","title":{"rendered":"Indie 2022"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>M\u011bs\u00edc na trase Delhi &#8211; Ladak &#8211; Srinagar &#8211; Mumbai<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><br \/>\nFotky <a href=\"https:\/\/photos.app.goo.gl\/iaEFqcbg5mFpimjr7\">Google Photos<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Cestopis tak\u00e9 dostupn\u00fd na <a href=\"https:\/\/www.worldee.com\/trip\/detail?tripId=481280#itinerary\">worldee.com<\/a><\/p>\n<h2><strong>Nav\u0161t\u00edven\u00e1 m\u011bsta<\/strong><\/h2>\n<h2><u>Agra<\/u><\/h2>\n<p>moje hodnocen\u00ed <strong>70%<\/strong><br \/>\nAgra je slavn\u00fd Taj Mahal a naopak. Moc se mi sem necht\u011blo, ale na\u017eivo je to fakt perfektn\u00ed z\u00e1\u017eitek. Na radu na\u0161eho \u0159idi\u010de jsme tam \u0161li v 6 r\u00e1no &#8211; tedy d\u0159\u00edv ne\u017e doraz\u00ed davy turist\u016f z Delhi. Potom jsme je\u0161t\u011b za\u0161li do centra m\u011bsta kde evidentn\u011b moc b\u011bloch\u016f nepotk\u00e1vaj\u00ed a nakoukli do hinduistick\u00e9 svatyn\u011b a to byl opravdu siln\u00fd okam\u017eit kter\u00fd si asi budu pomatovat u\u017e nav\u017edy. Tady je chudoba absolutn\u00ed a ka\u017ed\u00fd pohled n\u011bkomu do o\u010d\u00ed automaticky znamen\u00e1 \u017ee u\u017e se doty\u010dn\u00e9ho nezbav\u00edte.<br \/>\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Indie 2022 - Agra - Taj Mahal\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/XCas6jYy384?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<h2><u>Delhi<\/u><\/h2>\n<p>moje hodnocen\u00ed <strong>50%<\/strong><br \/>\nHlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto se mi t\u011b\u017eko hodnot\u00ed, vid\u011bli jsme jen p\u00e1r m\u00edst. Tady pochop\u00edte \u017ee v Indie je a\u017e extr\u00e9mn\u00ed sm\u011bs hezk\u00e9ho a o\u0161kliv\u00e9ho, bohat\u00e9ho a chud\u00e9ho, chutn\u00e9ho a smradlav\u00e9ho atd. Pozor na podvodn\u00edky kte\u0159\u00ed se tv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed jako hodn\u00ed strejdov\u00e9 a cht\u011bj\u00ed V\u00e1m poradit &#8211; n\u00e1m nap\u0159 n\u00e1m nabul\u00edkovali \u017ee n\u00e1\u0161 hotel je ve slamu (le\u017e) a \u017ee se tam nesm\u00ed kv\u016fli covid (le\u017e) a \u017ee povolen\u00ed ke vstupu do oblasti n\u00e1m vydaj\u00ed v turistick\u00e9m infocentru (le\u017e) kam n\u00e1s idned r\u00e1di zavezou. Samoz\u0159ejm\u011b se z toho vyklubala klasick\u00e1 soukroum\u00e1 cestovka kde n\u00e1m potom hodinu vysv\u011btlovali \u017ee n\u00e1\u0161 m\u011bs\u00ed\u010dn\u00ed itiner\u00e1\u0159 se cel\u00fd \u0161patn\u011b a \u017ee n\u00e1m ho r\u00e1di za p\u00e1r set dolar\u016f zajist\u00ed full service. Zaj\u00edmav\u00fd mi p\u0159i\u0161el kontrast mezi star\u00fdm (nuzn\u00e9 a p\u0159ecpan\u00e9 lidmy) a nov\u00fdm m\u011bstem (postaveno Brity, \u0161irok\u00e9 bulv\u00e1ry a kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 parky)<\/p>\n<h2><u>Srinagar<\/u><\/h2>\n<p>moje hodnocen\u00ed <strong>20%<\/strong><br \/>\nObecn\u011b bych u\u017e tam nejel, tady jsem si p\u0159ipadal jako chod\u00edc\u00ed pen\u011b\u017eenka. M\u00edst\u00ed obchodn\u00edci se v\u00e1s neptaj\u00ed jestli n\u011bco chcete koupit, ale kolik toho chcete nalo\u017eit. Span\u00ed v hausbotu na jeze\u0159e Dal je zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 m\u00edst\u00ed specialita, bohu\u017eel majitel\u00e9 lodi n\u00e1m jaksi zapom\u011bli \u0159\u00edct \u017ee tam budou s n\u00e1ma a nech\u00e1vali n\u00e1m nulov\u00e9 soukrom\u00ed a dokonce n\u00e1m lezli i do pokoje (ne\u0161el zamkout). Na konci p\u0159i placen\u00ed jsme se nesta\u010dili divit co v\u0161echno cht\u011bli doplatit extra. Nav\u00edc ve m\u011bst\u011b krom\u011b jezera opravdu nic moc extra nen\u00ed a zp\u011btn\u011b to vn\u00edm\u00e1m jako vyhozen\u00fd \u010das a pen\u00edze. Plus ve vzduchu se c\u00edtit jist\u00e9 nap\u011bt\u00ed proto\u017ee je to bl\u00edzko P\u00e1kist\u00e1nu a na ulic\u00edch vid\u00edte voj\u00e1ky a men\u0161\u00ed tanky. Tady u\u017e jasn\u011b dominuj\u00ed muslimov\u00e9, zat\u00edmco v Lehu odku\u010f jsme dorazili bude v\u011bt\u0161ina hindu- nebo budhist\u016f.<\/p>\n<h2><u>Bombaj<\/u><\/h2>\n<p>moje hodnocen\u00ed <strong>70%<\/strong><br \/>\n\u00dapln\u011b jin\u00fd ne\u017e co jsme doposud vid\u011bli, m\u011bsto u mo\u0159e s panoramatem New Yorku, kde se u\u017e je c\u00edtit z\u00e1padn\u00ed styl. Tady si m\u016f\u017eete dop\u0159\u00e1t cokoliv &#8211; nap\u0159 pivo a maso (kter\u00fd n\u00e1s zat\u00edm m\u00edjelo). Ale \u010dekal jsem v\u00edc. Mo\u017en\u00e1 toho bylo na m\u011b po m\u011bs\u00edci u\u017e prost\u011b moc.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Ladak<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>moje hodnocen\u00ed <strong>100%<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Sice st\u00e1le Indie, ale absolutn\u011b &#8222;neindick\u00e1&#8220; oblast. Li\u0161\u00ed se ve v\u0161em. Pohoda, relativn\u00ed \u010disto, klid, tak akor\u00e1t lid\u00ed, usm\u00edvaj\u00edc\u00ed se Tibe\u0165an\u00e9 na ka\u017ed\u00fdm kroku, nikdo n\u00e1m nic nenutil, p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fd hospody a kav\u00e1rny &#8211; prost\u011b po p\u0159\u00edletu z Dill\u00ed r\u00e1j na zemi. Je to u\u017e dost vysoko tak\u017ee se doporu\u010duje prvn\u00ed 3 dny relax. Hlavn\u00ed atrakc\u00ed Lehu je centr\u00e1ln\u00ed trh a temple na kopci. Ud\u011blali jsme si tu z\u00e1kladnu v jednom hotelu kam jsme se po ka\u017ed\u00e9m v\u00fdletu nebo treku vraceli. Na konci z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed tu kupodivu nebyla ani noha, z\u00e1padn\u00edch turist\u016f jsme za 2 t\u00fddny vid\u011bli asi 10. V Lehu najdete ve\u0161ker\u00e9 z\u00e1zem\u00ed kter\u00e9 pot\u0159ebujete.<\/p>\n<h2><u>Sham Valley trek<\/u><\/h2>\n<p>moje hodnocen\u00ed <strong>70%<\/strong><br \/>\n3 dny, 40km, max v\u00fd\u0161ka 4000mnm<\/p>\n<p>Jednoduch\u00fd trek dostupn\u00fd busem z Lehu. Span\u00ed u m\u00edstn\u00edch na Homestay ve velmi p\u011bkn\u00fdch pokoj\u00edch za cca 1400Inr za osobu. Zcela odlehl\u00e1 lokalita, mezi vesnicemi jsme nikoho nepotkali. Nejhez\u010d\u00ed m\u00edsta jsou v pasech kde ke kr\u00e1sn\u00fd v\u00fdhled na okoln\u00ed 6tis kopce. Doporu\u010duju i za\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00edk\u016fm, kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 trasy, v\u00fdborn\u00fd servis od m\u00edstn\u00edch.<\/p>\n<p>POZOR: druh\u00fd den jsme \u0161patn\u011b uhnuli doleva, a dost si za\u0161li. Je to zr\u00e1dn\u00fd m\u00edsto proto\u017ee spr\u00e1vn\u00e1 cesta nen\u00ed v\u016fbec vid\u011bt. Kdy\u017e stoj\u00edte v pasu Rongthil La a Hemis m\u00e1te za z\u00e1dy, mus\u00edte m\u00ed\u0159\u00edt na vysok\u00fd kopec m\u00edrn\u011b doprava, nikoliv doleva dol\u016f kam m\u00ed\u0159\u00ed v\u0161echny cesty.<\/p>\n<h2><\/h2>\n<h2><u>Markha Valley trek<\/u><\/h2>\n<p>moje hodnocen\u00ed <strong>85%<\/strong><br \/>\n5 dn\u00ed, 70km, max v\u00fd\u0161ka 5300mnm<\/p>\n<p>T\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00ed trek ne\u017e Sham Valley, ale obecn\u011b ok a ujde to ka\u017ed\u00fd kdo nedostane v\u00fd\u0161kovku. Span\u00ed op\u011bt u m\u00edstn\u00edch, tentokr\u00e1t opravu minim\u00e1ln\u00ed komfort v\u010dern\u011b brou\u010dk\u016f (kdo to nem\u00e1 r\u00e1d m\u016f\u017ee si s cestovkou dohodnou span\u00ed ve stanu).<br \/>\nNa trek jsme rad\u011bji vyrazili s cestovkou (BrokenMoon Trek &amp; Tours hned naproti Moravian School v Lehu) a zku\u0161en\u00fdm pr\u016fvodcem. Ur\u010dit\u011b to byla \u0161tastn\u00e1 volba, jednak ka\u017ed\u00fdho v \u00fadol\u00ed znal, tlumo\u010dil n\u00e1m a obecn\u011b s n\u00edm bylo spousta srandy. D\u00e1le cestovka zajist\u00ed dopravu tam (Leh-Chilling) a zp\u011bt (Chokdo-Leh). Ve skupin\u011b 3 lid\u00ed jsem platil 13000Inr a v\u00edc u\u017e na treku utr\u00e1cet nen\u00ed kde.<br \/>\nJinak na za\u010d\u00e1tku \u0159\u00edjna 2022 byl trek zcela bez turist\u016f a po\u010das\u00ed ide\u00e1ln\u00ed, posledn\u00ed noc ve stanech bylo kolem nuly, ale po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00fd p\u00e9\u0159\u00e1k a spousta dek sta\u010dily.<br \/>\nPrvn\u00ed 3 dny se jde vylo\u017een\u011b na pohodu a st\u00e1le se m\u00edrn\u011b stoup\u00e1 kolem \u0159\u00ed\u010dky Markha, 4t\u00fd den je nutno hodn\u011b nabrat v\u00fd\u0161ku a sp\u00ed se pod sedlem ve stanech, 5 t\u00fd posledn\u00ed den se jde velmi jednoduch\u00fd v\u00fd\u0161lap do sedla Konmaru La pass, ze stanov\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora v Nimalingu pouh\u00e9 2hod m\u00edrn\u011b do kopce. Nejt\u011b\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st je sestup proto\u017ee cesta vede v \u00fazk\u00e9m ka\u0148onu \u0159\u00ed\u010dkou (nedoporu\u010duju to chodit za ledu).<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Pozn\u00e1mka na konec<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>Indie ur\u010dit\u011b nen\u00ed pro ka\u017ed\u00e9ho ale r\u00e1d jsem j\u00ed poznal. Ve srovn\u00e1n\u00ed s Nep\u00e1lem u m\u011b v\u00edt\u011bz\u00ed pr\u00e1v\u011b Nep\u00e1l, ale pokud chcete nap\u0159\u00edklad jet poprvn\u00e9 do Himal\u00e1j\u00ed tak bych doporu\u010dovat jet do Indick\u00e9ho Ladaku kde budete m\u00edt lep\u0161\u00ed standard (mysl\u00edm nap\u0159 hotely, silnice, sign\u00e1l atd.) a budete n\u00ed\u017e z hlediska nadmo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ky a n\u00e1sledn\u011b na n\u011bjak\u00fd par\u00e1dn\u00ed trek do Nep\u00e1lu.<br \/>\nM\u00edstn\u00ed n\u00e1m opakovan\u011b doporu\u010dovali zajet do m\u011bsta Goa (aka party city) a st\u00e1tu Rishikesh (zele\u0148 a medita\u010dn\u00ed-yoga retreaty)<\/p>\n<p><strong>Pros<\/strong><br \/>\n+ perfektn\u00ed silnice v\u010detn\u011b odlehl\u00fdch oblast\u00ed Ladaku<br \/>\n+ mil\u00ed Tibe\u0165an\u00e9 v\u0161ude, pln\u011b integrovan\u00ed do spole\u010dnosti (ne jako v Nep\u00e1lu v imigra\u010dn\u00edch kempech)<br \/>\n+ obecn\u011b jsme se c\u00edtili bezpe\u010dn\u011b<br \/>\n+ levn\u00e9 a dobr\u00e9 hotely a j\u00eddlo<br \/>\n+ \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 st\u0159evn\u00ed ani jin\u00e9 zdravotn\u00ed pot\u00ed\u017ee<br \/>\n+ velmi m\u00e1lo turist\u016f, za cel\u00fd m\u011bs\u00edc jsme jich potkali snad 20<br \/>\n+ v\u0161ude n\u00e1m sta\u010dila angli\u010dtina<\/p>\n<p><strong>Cons<\/strong><br \/>\n&#8211; dra\u017es\u00ed ne\u017e jsme \u010dekali<br \/>\n&#8211; pozor na vy\u010d\u016fr\u00e1nky a podvodn\u00edky, jednou se nezept\u00e1\u0161 kolik ten \u010daj stoj\u00ed a bude\u0161 za n\u011bj platit 50x v\u00edc<br \/>\n&#8211; ob\u010das a\u017e absurdn\u011b \u0161patn\u00e1 hygiena (nap\u0159 \u0159ezn\u00edci na trhu v Lehu, to je st\u0159edov\u011bk)<br \/>\n&#8211; v\u0161echno j\u00eddlo ko\u0159en\u011bn\u00e9 dejme tomu, ale j\u00edst to m\u011bs\u00edc ..<br \/>\n&#8211; parodie na bezpe\u010dnostn\u00ed prohl\u00eddky na leti\u0161t\u00edch, m\u011b v\u017edy kontrolovali b\u00e1gl snad 3x zat\u00edmco m\u00edst\u00ed okat\u011b obch\u00e1zeli rentgen<br \/>\n&#8211; m\u00edstn\u00ed se r\u00e1di tla\u010d\u00ed, i tam kde to nen\u00ed t\u0159eba, pro\u0161t\u011b t\u011blo na t\u011blo<br \/>\n&#8211; j\u00edzdn\u00ed styl v\u011bt\u0161iny \u0159idi\u010d\u016f<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>N\u00e1klady<\/strong><br \/>\nletenky 21tis<br \/>\n\u00datrata v Indii v\u010detn\u011b 2 p\u0159elet\u016f 30tis<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>M\u011bs\u00edc na trase Delhi &#8211; Ladak &#8211; Srinagar &#8211; Mumbai<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-17412","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cestopis"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vancura.cz\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17412","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vancura.cz\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vancura.cz\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vancura.cz\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vancura.cz\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=17412"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/vancura.cz\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17412\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":17577,"href":"https:\/\/vancura.cz\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17412\/revisions\/17577"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vancura.cz\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=17412"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vancura.cz\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=17412"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vancura.cz\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=17412"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}